Show Report · Biloxi
The Kitchen Band Comes East One More Time
The restaurant in New Orleans has closed, and Spanking The Sauce are closing with it. They brought the farewell to Biloxi Friday. Nobody said farewell from the stage.

BILOXI — The restaurant in New Orleans where all six members of Spanking The Sauce worked has closed this year. The band is closing with it. It is playing seven dates around the Gulf: New Orleans, Baton Rouge, Lafayette, Houma, Biloxi, Mobile, and New Orleans again. Friday was Biloxi.
They came in their whites. They have always come in their whites, but this time there was no dinner service to come from. Louis Duplessis, who sings, set his ladle on a stool by the stage door. We asked him about the ladle. He said, “Heard,” which in a kitchen means he got the order.
Dewey Mahoney played in the paper kitchen hat. Theo Arceneaux kept a side towel over his left shoulder all night. Hieu Tran took his saxophone solos the length of a ticket time, no longer than necessary. Rosalie Fontenot counted every song in from the bass. Marcus Labat played trumpet. He was seventeen and washing dishes when the band began. He is twenty-nine now.
Nobody said it from the stage. Nobody said farewell, either.
They played most of the new record, The Farewell Sauce, and a good deal of the old ones. The last song was “It Only Simmers.” The sleeve of the new record carries one line: “It never ends. It only simmers.” Nobody said it from the stage. Nobody said farewell, either.
About a hundred and fifty came, some of them from New Orleans. They said they could not stand to wait for the last night.
Afterward we asked Ms. Fontenot what she would do next. She said she would like her own kitchen. We asked Mr. Labat. He said he would like not to wash dishes for money again.
Mobile is next, Saturday. Then home.